如何让一个英国帅哥留在芬兰?


除了漂亮的芬兰姑娘外,还有精酿啤酒。我们在午餐之际抵达了位于沃卡蒂湖区这座拥有自家精酿品牌的家族农场 Haapala,这里还有一栋 150 年历史的老屋,被称为“黄房子”。


芬兰沃卡蒂

芬兰沃卡蒂


品酒前,我们参观了这座“黄房子”。建筑的内饰保留当年的风貌,每个房间都精心设计,其中一间的墙壁被涂成了一位国王喜欢的粉红色,我特意留下了照片,准备识别它的色卡数做自己的流行色。


芬兰沃卡蒂

Photo: Haapala

芬兰沃卡蒂

Photo: Haapala

芬兰沃卡蒂

Photo: Haapala


来到农场谷仓改建的餐厅,我们见到了这位爱上芬兰女孩的英国男孩 Craig,他留着漂亮的络腮胡,顶着卡其色的鸭舌帽,瞬间烘托出了英伦气质。


芬兰沃卡蒂

Photo: 张卫


餐厅旁,他一边向酒杯中倒精酿啤酒,一边叙述和这里以及精酿的故事,而隔壁就是整个 Haapala 啤酒精酿工坊,透过落地窗可以望见里面巨大的滤壶以及各种酿造设备,好像一座实验室,很难想象一款精酿啤酒就是通过这些“瓶瓶罐罐”最后呈现在杯中。


芬兰沃卡蒂

芬兰沃卡蒂

Photo: Haapala芬兰沃卡蒂


我拿起一杯品尝,入喉的一刻,满嘴果香浓郁,时而隐现焦糖的气息,时而隐现果子的清香,回甘中有一丝苦味,仿佛入乡随俗一样,遵循了北欧的口味……收尾时依稀尝到了榛果的味道,好像将芬兰融入口中一样。


芬兰沃卡蒂


Haapala 精酿完全采用本地化原料,水和酿造所用的谷物大部分来自当地,其中还特别加入了一种叫“tar”的植物,可以说完全是所在地——凯努(Kainuu)地区的风味。


芬兰沃卡蒂

Photo: Haapala

芬兰沃卡蒂

Photo: Haapala


除了啤酒很好喝,啤酒瓶子的设计也很出彩。正值“黄房子”150周年之际,酒瓶上用诉说历史的 N 多个单词拼成了一个“150”的数字,喝酒的同时手握酒瓶的人也会望向这“150”所传达的品牌,望向这栋拥有 150 年历史的黄房子,一切归于原点,好似一种莫名的禅意在其中。


芬兰沃卡蒂


在接下来的拜访中,我们也见到了 Craig 的芬兰妻子 Kaisa,由她带领走入农场参观,一起烘焙了芬兰传统的点心卡罗利亚派(Karelian pasty)。


芬兰沃卡蒂

Photo: 张卫


——当炉火烘烤面饼散发出香味时,我突然感受到一种宁静的匠人生活:用心让旧事物保留“初心”,用心珍视这里的草木空气,用心烘焙糕点和酿造啤酒,延续过去的生活,成为当下一种全新的生活。


芬兰沃卡蒂

芬兰沃卡蒂

芬兰沃卡蒂

Photo: Haapala


对话Craig


芬兰沃卡蒂

Photo: Haapala


Q1

精酿啤酒日益流行,在中国,很多年轻人投身这一行业,追求打造独特口感的啤酒,让更多的人了解精酿并爱上这味道,请问是什么原因让你选择这个行业的呢?

In China, many young people are starting their career from craft beer and working on its special tasting and geting more people to know about it. May I know the reason why you choose craft beer as your career?


精酿啤酒不仅仅是“啤酒”,它关乎历史、原料以及不断从新旧酿造技术中寻找独一无二口味的探索。通常而言,手工精酿厂的规模要比主流酿酒厂小得多,更具有灵活性,可以在技术、口味和配料方面进行很多尝试。比如 Haapala,我们在啤酒中混合了来自芬兰的谷物和香料,这让啤酒具有鲜明本地口味——属于凯努(Kainuu)地区,亦属于芬兰。


Craft beer Is not just about beer, it's about getting in touch with History, raw ingredients, and the never-ending search for old and new techniques to bring something unique to the table. Generally, craft breweries operate on a much smaller level than mainstream breweries and can operate more flexibly and experiment more on techniques, flavours and ingredients. At Haapala, we are using Finnish grains mixed with Local ingredients from our land and other local producers to help define the flavour of Haapala, Kainuu and Finland.


芬兰沃卡蒂

Photo: Haapala


Q2

我品尝过四款口味Haapala啤酒厂的精酿啤酒,它们给我留下了深刻的味觉体验,有些充满浓郁焦糖味,有些具有果香味,可以介绍一下Haapala精酿啤酒和你的团队吗?

Since we tasted four kinds of Haapala, they are all amazing, some tasting like sugar, and some tasting like fruite. Can you tell me a brief introducing about Haapala craft beer and your team? 


Haapala 啤酒厂所在的这座家族农场拥有 150 年的历史,现在的拥有者是 Haapala,他在 2018 年将这里定位成集合精酿啤酒厂、餐厅以及 B&B 民宿的“Haapala”品牌。


芬兰沃卡蒂

Photo: Haapala


我们的团队由来自 Korhonen 家族的第 5 代 Juho、Kaisa(Craig 的芬兰妻子)以及合作伙伴 Venla 和我共同经营,这座古老的农场有非常多的故事可以挖掘,激发我们在“local flavours”上进行更多尝试。


Haapala brewery, restaurant and bed & breakfast were founded in 2018 by the 5th generation owners of the family farm by the same name of Haapala. Juho and Kaisa are the 5th generation of the Korhonen family and was founded with their partners Venla and myself.

Haapala itself is an old farm with the main house turning 150 Years old in 2018. So there is lots of history and local flavours to inspire and experiment with.


芬兰沃卡蒂

Photo: Haapala


Q3

北欧有非常多精酿啤酒品牌,你是如何看待北欧精酿啤酒市场的呢?以及在市场竞争中,你是如何定位自己的精酿啤酒品牌的呢?

How do you see the craft beer market in northern Europe? And in your market, how did you plan to fix the position of your craft beer brand from beginning?


欧洲大陆越往北走,人就越少,啤酒厂也是。虽然北欧的人很少,但在我们看来这反而成为一种优势,能让我们轻松地脱颖而出。近几年,芬兰的精酿啤酒市场增长迅猛,作为凯努(Kainuu)唯一的啤酒厂,Haapala 精酿呈现了独特的地方风味,受到零售商及市场的青睐,即使我们并未对品牌做太多的宣传。


芬兰沃卡蒂

Photo: Haapala


除了啤酒,生活在这里很让人放松,即使不喜欢喝啤酒的人,也可以在餐厅品尝到这里的美食,在农场获得很放松的体验。


The further north in Europe you go the fewer people there are, and therefore fewer breweries the nearest to us i2 hours in any direction.

However, despite there being fewer people we see this as a benefit, it allows us to stand out from the crowd much more easily.  We can convey our message without having to shout over the competition (craft breweries have seen strong growth in Finland in recent years also).  We are also able to gain retailers, by being in the privileged position of being currently the only brewery in Kainuu, so we can capture the imagination and tastes of the locals.

Aside from the beer, it’s a great pace of life here and very relaxing. So even if you don’t enjoy beer, you can experience great local food from our kitchen and a relaxing stay on the farm.


芬兰沃卡蒂

Photo: Haapala


Q4

上次除了品尝你的精酿啤酒,我们还参观了这座拥有150年历史的家族农场,作为一位英国人,你在芬兰生活的感受是什么?与在英国的生活有什么不同呢?

We also visited the farm during last visiting. It is a family farm since 150 years ago. So how about the life way in Finland, anything different in life way from your country?


在搬到这里之前,我生活在伦敦——相当于从欧洲人口最密集的地方搬到欧洲人口最稀少的地方,整个生活节凑完全不同。


芬兰沃卡蒂

Photo: Haapala


人真的很少。虽然我并不喜欢那种犯罪率很高、特别喧嚣的地方,但偶尔还是会怀念“city life”——热络的生活氛围、丰富的娱乐,以及不断发生着的精彩……然而我还是满意现在的一切,生活近乎一种理想:荒野就在身边,数一数二的新鲜空气,以及处处充满惊喜的丛林——巨大再生力量的代表,给予我们食物、啤酒的原料、一切的一切……想让生活朝着可持续的方向发展,我们也要善待丛林。


Well in Europe at least the pace of life could not be more different for me moving from one of the most populated parts to one of the most unpopulated parts of Europe. I grew up and lived in London before moving to Kainuu.

The main difference is the number of people, I don’t miss the higher crime rates, pollution noise etc. Occasionally I miss the multiculturalism of city life and the buzz of something always going on. However, I wouldn’t change what we have here, it’s a dream; the wilderness is right outside your doorstep, some of the freshest air in Europe. Not to forget of course the forest is a huge natural renewable resource for food and ingredients for the brewery and the kitchen, as long as we look after it in a sustainable manner of course.


芬兰沃卡蒂


Q5

我们了解到,去年开始Haapala精酿啤酒已经开始供应农场餐厅,能谈一下你对Haapala精酿啤酒未来的期待吗?如果有机会,想要走入中国精酿啤酒市场吗?

We were told that Haapala started to supply to farm restaurant. Is this one part from your planning to Haaapala? Or what is your plan for Haapala future in business way? Do you like to introduce Haapala to China if there is some chance in future?


将 Haapala 精酿供应农场餐厅的初衷,是想让这的人从啤酒中品尝到“属于这个地方”的味道,芬兰的味道,像小时候记忆力里的味道;而对于来到这旅行的外国人,也能尝到不一样的北欧“滋味”。


芬兰沃卡蒂

Photo: Haapala


在创立 Haapala 精酿之初,我们的目标就是让产品走的更远,从啤酒厂到农场厨房,直到进入全国市场。我们相信产品能为市场带来不同,它融合了“过去”与“现在”,汲取自当地的自然,诠释着属于“Haapala”特有的味道。


芬兰沃卡蒂

Photo: Haapala


未来,在帮助本地供应商的同时,我们也将促进当地环境的可持续。慢节奏的生活能让人学到很多,去坚守 Haapala 的初心以及品质,而不仅仅是利润最大化,市场也会给予我们更广阔的空间。


For Fins it these taste experience usually results in the taste of Kainuu, Finland or something from their childhood. For foreigners, it usually results in a new experience that exemplifies Northern Europe.

Once we have established, we plan to increase our product ranges from the brewery and the Kitchen and enter the retail market nationally.

We believe we have something new to offer the market, a balance of historical yet modern and centred on local produce which helps define the flavour of Haapala and our region. Furthermore, this supports local producers and the environment at the same time. Capitalism can learn a lot from the slower pace of life, the is still room for growth without putting profits before anything else. Haapala speaks from the heart.


END


Craig 最后并未回答我关于“是否想让 Haapala 精酿进入中国”这一问题,我想对于匠人而言与其将心力放在宏大的筹谋上,不如放在如何打磨好每一件作品上。


芬兰沃卡蒂

Photo: 胃炎耸听


“酒香不怕巷子深”——这略显老气的哲理也许适用 Craig 以及他的 Haapala 精酿上,即使在芬兰一处小小乡间,相信依旧有人会寻着这甘醇的香气不远而来。




Haapala 精酿农场:Haapalantie 3, 88600 Sotkamo, Findland

相关产品:芬兰冰岛湖区火山11天自驾之旅

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